Where to Put Stuff in Your Small Home
If you live in Hawaii or have visited homes outside of the usual tourist areas, you know that space is at a premium. Similar to large cities like New York or San Francisco, we made a choice that the beauty of our tropical home is worth the sacrifices of large homes and huge yards. The Gold Coast has many condominiums and the “yard” is the beautiful Gold Coast beaches right outside the door. The view of the pristine Waikiki beaches and the Pacific Ocean outweighs the suburban neighborhood feel. Part of the price of our small spaces is the lack of storage and the choice of whether or not to accumulate a lot of stuff. In every room of the home, creativity comes to the forefront. One of the best tips in a small space, when looking for storage, look up! Vertical space is one of the most under-utilized spaces. Here are some other ideas for your small space. And the next time you feel a little crammed or decide not to buy something, just take a quick stroll outside and gaze at paradise…it’s always there as a reminder that it’s worth it!
Small Home Storage: Maximize Your Storage Space
By Terry Sheridan | From HouseLogic
Your small home has more storage space than you think. For relatively little money but a lot of common sense and ingenuity, there’s space to be found.
Here are six tips to maximize storage that won’t empty your savings account:
1. De-clutter. It’s the first thing architect Sarah Susanka of “Not So Big House” tells clients who talk of expanding their homes. Haven’t used something for a couple of years? Pitch it, she says. You’ll be amazed at how much space opens up when you do.
Cost: $0.
2. Platform/bunkbeds. Add space and eliminate a dresser in a small bedroom with a three-drawer or six-drawer platform bed. Find one at a furniture or big department store, and online.
Cost: $400 to $600, queen size.
Bunkbeds won’t have drawers, but save space by stacking beds. And kids love ‘em. They come in a variety of styles and configurations. Some will convert to two twin beds.
Cost: $300 to $550.
3. Shoe organizers. They’re for so much more than just shoes. Hang one in a kitchen closet or pantry, and use it as your small home catch-all for remotes, keys, notepads, cell phones, and chargers, and other household essentials. It’ll free up a kitchen drawer or two for other uses.
Cost: Less than $20.
4. Toe-kick storage. The space under your kitchen cabinets is a treasure trove of storage possibilities. Put placemats, napkins, cookie sheets, and how-to manuals there. Hire a cabinet-maker to install them, or request them as a custom feature in a new-cabinet order.
Cost: About $300 per drawer.
5. Floor-to-ceiling storage. Furniture-style 6-foot-tall bookcases don’t use all available wall space. But extend shelving that extra two feet to the ceiling, and you’ve got room for a lot more books, knickknacks, or art objects. Home improvement stores have brackets and shelves in a variety of colors and sizes to match your décor.
Cost: Under $200, depending on the space size.
Kitchen Organization = Reduced Stress
And we could all use some of that! Sometimes it helps to look at your space from a different perspective – even if you are not planning to move and have not moved recently – look around your home as if you were a potential buyer. If the clutter of day-to-day living is threatening to overwhelm your space, then maybe it’s time to do a little organizing – before something happens in life that leads to a necessary move. And if life has recently brought a new home or move, think of it as a chance to get things in place and prevent the stress and clutter before it has a chance to happen! P.S. If live either near either Kahala or Kapolei, Hawaii, plan a visit to Simply Organized, but make sure you have a little time to get lost and browse around. Most of us living in Hawaii are so used to everything being close and don’t like to drive very far, but it’s worth the trip if you don’t live close to those areas. You will leave with a plethora of ideas & a new excitement to get your space clutter-free & peaceful!
Low-Cost Kitchen Storage: Cheap Stress Reduction
By Jan Soults Walker | Published in HouseLogic
Low-cost storage strategies bring calm to your kitchen, banishing stress-inducing clutter and leaving the space orderly.
Rack attack: Store pots, everyday dishes, spices, and wine on racks that are freestanding, wall-hung, and ceiling-hung–and voila! Everything is in its own location, visible, and easily accessible!
Position the racks where they make sense: A pot rack above the cooktop; a dish rack close to the dishwasher for quick unloading; spices near the range or meal prep area; a wine rack near the wine glasses and dining table.
You’ll find racks in metal, wood, and other materials, starting as low as $10 to $15.
Shelf expression: You can size an open shelf to fit anywhere you need it and paint or stain it to match your décor. Use shelves for storing such kitchen necessities as cookbooks, attractive dishware, oils and vinegars, and spices.
Home improvement centers have storage sections where you can hunt, but don’t overlook the office supply and bathroom sections for even more low-cost shelves.
You’ll find cool shelves starting as low as $8.
Great divide: Organize the contents of kitchen drawers and cabinets with wire or wood inserts. Drawer dividers keep utensils sorted and orderly. Vertical dividers inside cabinets create a spot for storing trays and cookie sheets. You’ll also find special inserts for storing knives and spices neatly inside drawers.
Available in wire, wood, or plastic, dividers start at about $3.
Elevated thinking: Wire stacking shelves have legs to elevate the storage surface. Set a stacking shelf on a countertop, existing shelf, or inside a cabinet to increase kitchen storage space. Use a stacking shelf for canned goods, dishware, spices, and more.
Prices start at about $6.
Hang ups: Install pegs or hooks along a backsplash, inside cabinets, or anywhere on a kitchen wall to create a place for cups, hot pads, cooking utensils, keys, and recipe clips. Hooks are available that fit over doors or come equipped with magnets that adhere to any metal surface.
Pegs and hooks start as low as $1.
Basket case: Baskets come in a variety of materials to complement your décor, from natural woven grasses to canvas to colorful plastic bins. Set baskets on open shelves, inside cupboards, and on the kitchen counter to round up small items, such as napkin rings and bamboo skewers.
Baskets are great for storing dish towels, cloth napkins, and coupons. Prices start as low as $1.
Do Halloween Dangers Lurk at Your Entryway?
It’s almost here! A fun holiday full of dark nights, cool costumes, and yummy treats. Many of us in Hawaii live in condos, so the outside decorations are minimal, but if you do live in a house, this is a good time to take a second look at your home’s entrance. You may receive more visitors and rings on the doorbell in this one night than you do the entire rest of the year combined! Learn from experts on keeping it a safe holiday – without any unexpected “tricks” that result in princesses and super hero’s leaving with a frown.
Published on HouseLogic October 22, 2012 | By: Oliver Marks
Is your front entryway ready for Halloween visitors? Keep everything fun and accident-free with these 7 safety tips.
Everyone loves a good scare on Halloween — as long as it’s just a trick.
To help you avoid any real-life scares — such as falls, fires, and traffic accidents — around your property this All Hallows Eve, play it safe while you’re setting up your Halloween lights and decorations.
Here are 7 simple precautions recommended by John Pettibone, curator of Hammond Castle, a Gloucester, Mass., mansion that draws thousands to its renowned 20-room haunted house every Halloween season.
1. Light the scene.
Providing plenty of illumination ensures that your visitors can see where they’re walking, helping to avoid missteps and falls. Pettibone suggests using the highest wattage bulbs your outdoor lighting fixtures can safely take (check the label on the socket), and adding landscape lights every few feet along your front walk.
“We use the solar-powered kind because there’s no wiring needed,” he says. “Just push them into the ground, let them soak up the sun during the day, and they’ll light up the walk after dark.”
2. Secure the footing.
Clear your walk, steps, and stoop of any obstructions that could trip youngsters focused more on tricks and treats than watching where they’re going. That means moving potted mums and jack o’lanterns out of the way, and hammering down any nail heads protruding out of your steps.
If you have a concrete stoop, which can get slippery when wet, apply friction tape ($16 for a 60-foot roll of 1-inch-wide tape) to ensure stable footing, says Pettibone. He also stocks up on chemical ice melt ($20 for a 50-lb. bag) just in case of an early freeze.
3. Tighten the railings.
If your porch railings are wobbly or broken, family members and friends may know not to lean too heavily on them, but Halloween visitors won’t. So hire a contractor or handyman to fix the problem. It’ll make your home safer for guests all year round. Because more strangers come to your front door this night than the rest of the year combined, now is the time to take care of it.
4. Eliminate fire hazards.
Don’t put real candles into your carved pumpkins or paper lanterns. “That’s a fire waiting to happen,” says Pettibone. Instead, pick up a bulk pack of LED-bulb faux candles, which emit a yellowish, flickering, battery-powered light that looks amazingly similar to the real thing — without the danger.
5. Secure your property.
To prevent burglaries and Halloween pranks — especially on mischief night the previous evening — make sure to keep all windows and doors (other than your main door) locked shut.
You might have an electrician add motion-sensor lights around your property, so anyone who walks down your driveway or around into the backyard will be discouraged from intruding any farther.
6. Set the scene.
In addition to spooky items like cotton cobwebs and half-buried skeletons, consider a few safety-related scene-setters. Pettibone suggests propping open the screen or storm door so it doesn’t get in the way when there’s a big group of kids congregated on your stoop. “We use yellow caution tape to tie open the door,” he says. “You can order it online and it works well with the Halloween theme.” A 1,000-ft. roll of 3-inch-wide caution tape is about $8.
You’ll also want a working doorbell, so if yours is broken, either hire an electrician or handyman to fix it — or install a wireless doorbell in its place.
7. Enhance street safety.
Four times as many child pedestrians get killed on Halloween night than a normal night. So limit the danger as much as you can by clearing parked cars off the curb to allow better visibility and placing a reflective “watch for children sign” at the edge of the road. For for high-traffic roads in Halloween-intensive neighborhoods, consider posting an adult in the street with a hand-held traffic control light to help maintain safety.
Halloween Home Maintenance: Spooky Sounds and Strange Smells
If the creaking, groaning, and not quite right sounds in your home tempt you to stick a sign out on the front lawn and charge admission to your “haunted” house, then it might be time for a little maintenance! When our lives get busy, something’s gotta give, and unfortunately, it is often home repairs that end up on the back burner and once you are used to those little noises, you start to not notice them. Consider this an autumnal reminder. HouseLogic contributing writer John Riha has some simple fixes that may surprise you – take a look below!
Published: October 27, 2011 | By: John Riha
Are you haunted by strange noises and weird odors? With the proper maintenance, you’ve got more than a ghost of a chance to rest easy.
Creaking and popping in the night
The many materials that make up your house — wood framing, plywood, glass, metal ducts, nails, plumbing pipes — all expand and contract at different rates.
When a house cools at night, these materials may move slightly, rubbing against each other and making noises. Occasionally, they’ll contract with an audible pop.
These sounds tend to be more noticeable in fall, when warm days give way to rapidly cooling nights. The bad news? Not much you can do about it. The good news? Those sounds are harmless and normal.
Zombie odor
It’s either time to throw out the garbage, or you’d better call your gas utility to check on your gas lines and connections.
Natural gas is odorless, but natural gas suppliers add a foul-smelling odorant — butyl mercaptan — to alert occupants to any leaks. The smell is like rotten eggs.
Leaks can occur at your gas-fired water heater, fireplace, clothes dryer, and any gas line. Leaking natural gas is potentially dangerous — leave the house and call your natural gas provider to assess the situation. Most utility companies perform safety checks for free.
Footsteps in the attic
Amplified by an unfinished attic space, a raccoon or even a good-size squirrel on your roof might sound like an ax murderer is doing the polka overhead.
These rooftop transits are normal for critters — roofs offer a nice long unobstructed highway.
Make sure your soffit, rafter, and gable roof vents are covered with screens and in good shape, or your rooftop buddies might find their way into your attic for real. Trim back branches that provide critters easy access to your roof.
Something’s burning
You can smell the odor of burnt wood, but the smoke detectors aren’t going off and there’s no smoke in the house. The culprit could be your fireplace — even if you haven’t had a fire for days.
The probable cause is a drafty chimney and negative air pressure in your home, meaning that outside air is infiltrating down your chimney, bringing stale burnt smells with it.
Stop drafts by making sure your damper has a good seal. Regulate air pressure by adding more cold air return ducts to your HVAC system. You’ll get rid of the odor and save on your energy bill, too.
Moaning and clattering
These classic spooky sounds often show up when the wind blows and there’s a storm brewing.
Vents for clothes dryers, bathrooms, and water heaters exit out the roof or the side of the house. To prevent backdrafts, these vents have dampers — flaps designed to let vented air out and prevent outside air from coming in. These flaps sometimes move and rattle in high winds.
Because dampers often are located in attics or in between floor joists, the sound can be difficult to pinpoint. You may need a new damper ($85).
7 Smart Strategies for Kitchen Remodeling
The word remodeling can be intimidating to homeowners. Say the word remodeling and the impressions of expensive, hassle, and mess soon follow. However, the strategies in this article from HouseLogic can keep all of those items manageable. Imagine, a beautiful new space that stays within budget, within time constraints and improves the value of your home. Don’t wait until you are getting ready to move to increase the value of your home; plan it out so that YOU get to enjoy that beautiful new space as much as the next owner.
By: John Riha | Published: March 25, 2011
Kitchen remodeling can turn a ho-hum room into your home’s pride and joy. Here are strategies to help your project run smoothly.
A significant portion of kitchen remodeling costs may be recovered by the value the project brings to your home. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000 to $60,000 range recoup about 66% of the initial project cost at the home’s resale, according to recent data from Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report.
A minor kitchen remodel of about $20,000 does even better, returning more than 72% of your investment.
To make sure you maximize your return, follow these seven smart kitchen remodeling strategies that will help you come up with great kitchen design ideas.
1. Establish priorities for a kitchen remodel
The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending at least six months planning your kitchen remodeling project. That way, you won’t be tempted to change your mind during construction, create change orders, and inflate construction costs. Here are planning points to cover:
Cooking traffic patterns: A walkway through the kitchen should be at least 36 inches wide. Work aisles should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.
Child safety: Avoid sharp, square corners on countertops, and make sure microwave ovens are installed at the proper height—3 inches below the shoulder of the primary user but not more than 54 inches from the floor.
Outside access: If you want easy access to entertaining areas, such as a deck or patio, factor a new exterior door into your plans.
A professional designer can simplify your kitchen remodel. Pros help make style decisions, foresee potential problems, and schedule contractors. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.
2. Keep the same footprint
No matter the size and scope of your kitchen remodel, you can protect your budget by maintaining the same footprint: Keep the walls, locate new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes, and forget bump-outs.
Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction costs, you’ll cut the amount of dust and debris your project generates.
3. Get real about appliances
It’s easy to get carried away during your kitchen remodeling project. A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator may make eye-catching centerpieces, but they may not fit your cooking needs or lifestyle.
High-priced appliances are worth the investment if you’re an exceptional cook. Otherwise, save thousands with trusted brands that receive high marks at consumer review websites, like http://www.ePinions.com and http://www.amazon.com, and resources such as Consumer Reports.
4. Light your way
Good kitchen lighting helps you work safely and efficiently.
Install task lighting, such as recessed or track lights, over sinks and food prep areas; assign at least two fixtures per task to eliminate shadows. Under-cabinet lights illuminate cleanup and are great for reading cookbooks. Pendant lights over counters bring the light source close to work surfaces.
Ambient lighting includes flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights. Pair dimmer switches with ambient lighting to control intensity and mood.
5. Be quality conscious
Functionality and durability should be top priorities during kitchen remodeling. Resist low-quality bargains, and choose products that combine low maintenance with long warranty periods. Solid-surface countertops, for instance, may cost a little more, but with the proper care, they’ll look great for a long time.
If you’re planning on moving soon, products with substantial warranties are a selling advantage.
“Individual upgrades don’t necessarily give you a 100% return,” says Frank Gregoire, a real estate appraiser in St. Petersburg, Fla. “But they can give you an edge when it comes time to market your home.”
6. Add storage, not space
Here’s how you can add storage without bumping out walls:
Install cabinets that reach the ceiling: They may cost more–and you might need a stepladder–but you’ll gain valuable storage space for Christmas platters and other once-a-year items. In addition, you won’t have to dust cabinet tops.
Hang it up: Mount small shelving units on unused wall areas and inside cabinet doors; hang stock pots and large skillets on a ceiling-mounted rack; and add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.
7. Communicate early and often
Establishing a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. To keep the sweetness in your project:
Drop by the project during work hours: Your presence broadcasts your commitment to quality.
Establish a communication routine: Hang a message board on site where you and the project manager can leave daily communiqués. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.
Set house rules: Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, available bathrooms, and appropriate parking.
Evaluate Your House for a Home Office
Honolulu was recently named the city with the worst traffic in the United States. 😦 Living here, though, it’s easy to believe. Because of that and the rising gas prices, more employers are offering flex schedules and the opportunity for some employees to work from home a few days a week. But where in your home can you work? Did you think about that before you purchased your home? Our homes are full of distractions (ocean view, anyone?), so many of us try to develop a dedicated home office space. This article will help you evaluate your home for a dedicated home office. Think it through before you make the jump and you will be happier with the results…of course, nothing compares to being stuck in an hour of traffic that moves at a crawl, so maybe if you do leap before you look, you’ll still be happy and have more free time 😉
By: Pat Curry | Published in HouseLogic: February 5, 2010
When planning a home office remodel, consider the specific needs of your profession for space, light, storage, technology, and security.
That said, while an office may make your home more attractive to potential buyers, it won’t add significantly to value. According to Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report, converting a 12-by-12-foot bedroom into an office costs a national average of around $28,000 and recoups less than half the investment. But if you’re among the more than 20% of Americans who do some or all of their job at home, a comfortable, functional work space is a must-have.
Where to put a home office
A spare bedroom is the most common place for an office, but it’s not the only adaptable space in the house. The formal living rooms and dining rooms in many older homes often don’t get a lot of use and make great offices, says Lisa Kanarek, founder of WorkingNaked.net, a service for people “stripped of the support” of the corporate office. “They’re spacious, have good light, and are easy to close off,” Kanarek says.
Architect Sarah Susanka, author of “Not So Big Remodeling,” converted her formal living room into an office for her therapist husband. It’s close to the front door and has easy access to the powder room, both important considerations if your business brings visitors into the home. Attics, basements, dens, sunrooms, garages, even laundry rooms are similarly convertible.
One important question is whether you’ll be taking the home office deduction on your taxes. If so, your work area can’t be used for any other purpose; the IRS bases the deduction on square footage used “exclusively and regularly” for business activities. Consult your accountant about whether the deduction makes sense for you.
What to spend on a home office
The home office conversion described in the Cost vs. Value Report costs about $28,900, a figure that includes custom cabinetry, 20 linear feet of laminate desktop, wall-mounted storage, upgraded electrical and data wiring, and new woodwork, paint, and flooring.
Of course, you don’t have to spend that much. By using off-the-shelf products and materials and doing some of the work, such as painting, yourself, you can transform an existing room into a home office for a lot less money. At minimum, though, budget $3,000 to $5,000 for paint, flooring, lighting, office furniture, and equipment.
Consider the needs of your profession
When evaluating space, start by making a list of the needs of your profession. An architect, for example, might want natural light and ample counter space for rolling out blueprints, while a vendor needs easily accessed storage for shipping supplies. In general, every office requires a work surface, storage, place for a computer and other electronics, and adequate lighting. Consider also your needs for the following:
Power, phone, and data wiring. A bedroom may already have enough outlets and at least one phone or cable jack, but if you’re taking over a formal dining room, you’ll likely need new wiring. It’s a relatively easy job for an electrician to add outlets (typically $100 to $250 per receptacle, depending on whether you also need to run new circuits). Internet connections can often be handled wirelessly, but for maximum reliability and security, ask your phone or cable company about installing additional lines.
Privacy. Susanka says the biggest mistake her clients make is putting their office in the middle of their home’s hustle and bustle. “The environment for work needs to be off the main living area,” she says. That doesn’t mean you need to hide out in the basement, but you’re better off out of the major traffic zones, especially with children at home.
Security. If your work involves financial or other confidential records, think about how you’ll keep them secure. “I have client credit card numbers in my office,” says Paige Rien, designer for the HGTV show “Hidden Potential.” “I close the door and lock it.” (For more on keeping important documents safe, take our home office security checkup.)
When dedicated space isn’t an option
Not everyone has a spare room to devote to an office. In that case, you need to find creative ways to carve out space. Offices can often be tucked into little-used locations, such as under stairs, in dormers, and on second-floor landings. One of Kanarek’s clients set up in a walk-in closet. “She lined the walls with counters and put in mirrors to make the space feel bigger,” Kanarek says.
Closets offer a good compromise because you can close the doors on your job at the end of the day. Another option is a computer armoire; starting at around $500, you can get one with shelves for a computer and peripherals, a slide-out keyboard tray, organizers for files, even built-in cork boards. If that’s out of your budget, set off a corner of the living room or family room with a room divider, bookcases, or a folding screen.
Whatever you do, Kanarek advises, try working in the space for a few weeks before investing any money in remodeling. “I have clients who spend thousands of dollars on built-ins,” she says, “and then sit on their bed or at the kitchen table to work because they like the light there better.”
Homeowners Insurance: Time for an Annual Check-Up
Have you ever been in a car accident and found out after the fact that your insurance coverage was inadequate? Maybe there were minor injuries and the hospital bill wasn’t covered, or the repair costs exceeded your maximum? Now imagine that situation with the largest investment most of us will make in a lifetime – our homes. Gulp. Not so nice. If you live in Hawaii, you have more options in your choice of insurer than you may realize. We have access to wonderful local companies, but also mainland carriers that specialize in unique homes & situations. It’s important to make sure that your home is not under-insured any more than you are paying more than you should be. This article from HouseLogic gives some great explanation of the ins and outs of homeowners insurance – how much coverage to have, what some of the jargon means, and some tips to save some money (none of us object to that, right?). Find a good local insurance broker who will help you with this check-up every year to keep your homeowners policy healthy!
From HouseLogic | By: G. M. Filisko
An annual check-up on your homeowners insurance can result in a healthier policy and a healthier pocketbook.
It’s time for your annual check-up. The good news is that for this one, you won’t have to don one of those revealing hospital gowns—and you may walk away with a healthier pocketbook. We’re talking about a homeowners insurance check-up, a task you should complete once a year, ideally around renewal time. This will ensure your policy still provides the right level of coverage for your family, and your premium isn’t costing you more than it should.
Remember, homeowners insurance is essential. The coverage is designed to protect your home and its contents, as well as shield you from liability for accidents and such on your property. Block out an hour of your time, call an insurance agent, and get answers to these three important questions.
What type of coverage do I have?
The most effective type of coverage is known as “replacement cost,” which covers, up to your policy limits, what it would take today to rebuild your house and restore your belongings, says Jerry Oshinsky, a partner at Jenner & Block in Los Angeles who has represented homeowners in litigation against insurers.
“Extended” replacement cost coverage provides protection to your policy limit, say $500,000, and then perhaps another 20% of the cost after that. Percentages vary, but in this example you could recoup up to $600,000 on a $500,000 policy, assuming your losses reach that high. Extended coverage can compensate for any unanticipated expenses like spikes in construction costs between policy renewals. Now harder to find due to the industry shift toward extended replacement coverage, “full” or “guaranteed” replacement coverage covers an entire claim regardless of policy limits.
A less attractive alternative is “actual cash value” coverage that usually takes into account depreciation, the decrease in value due to age and wear. With this type of policy, the $2,000 flat-screen TV you bought two years ago will be worth hundreds of dollars less today in the eyes of your claims adjuster. Kevin Foley, an independent insurance broker in Milltown, N.J., favors replacement cost coverage unless you can save at least 25% on the premium for going with actual cash value coverage instead.
Even if you have replacement cost protection for your dwelling and personal property, don’t assume everything is covered. Structures other than your home on your property—such as a detached garage or swimming pool—require separate coverage. So too do luxury items like jewelry, watches, and furs if you want full replacement cost because reimbursement for those items is typically capped.
How much coverage do I really need?
OK, now that you’re clear on what type of policy you have, you need to figure out how much policy you truly require in dollar terms. Let’s say you purchased your home five years ago and insured it for $200,000. Today, it’s worth $225,000. Simply increasing your coverage to $225,000 may nonetheless leave you underinsured. Here’s why.
The key to determining how much dwelling coverage you need isn’t the value of your home but the money you’d have to pay to rebuild it from scratch, says Carlos Aguirre, an agent for Liberty Mutual Insurance in Arlington, Texas. Call your local contractors’ or homebuilders’ association and inquire about the average per-square-foot construction cost in your area. If it’s $150 and your home is 2,000 square feet, then you should be insured for $300,000.
There’s no rule of thumb for how much your homeowners insurance should cost. Insurers use numerous factors—age, education level, creditworthiness—to determine pricing, so the same policy could run you more than your neighbor. In recent years the average annual premium was $804. Oshinsky advises against scrimping on insurance because big increases in coverage probably cost less than you’d think. He recently purchased a liability policy that cost $250 for the first $1 million in coverage. Adding another $1 million increased his premiums only $12.50 more.
How can I lower my premiums?
The higher your deductible, the amount you pay out of pocket before coverage kicks in, the lower your premium. Landing on the appropriate deductible level requires remembering that insurance should cover major calamities, not minor incidents, says Foley, the independent insurance broker. Most homeowners should be able to absorb modest losses like a broken window pane or a hole in the drywall without filing claims. If you can, then you’re wasting money with a $250 deductible.
Foley’s rule: If you’re a first-time homeowner and don’t have a lot of savings, moving up to a $500 deductible will probably stretch your budget. However, if you live in a ritzy home and drive an expensive car, then you should be able to afford a $1,000 deductible. In Milltown, N.J., for example, the premium for a $200,000 home with a $500 deductible would be $736, according to Foley; moving up to a $1,000 deductible drops the annual premium to $672. That’s $64 in savings.
Every major insurer offers discounts to various groups, such as university employees or firefighters. Figure about 5%. Ask which affiliations would entitle you to a discount and how much. If an AARP membership would result in a $50 savings, pay the $16 dues and pocket the $36 difference. Many insurers also offer discounts ranging from 1% to 10% or more for installing protective devices like alarms and deadbolt locks, for going claim-free for an extended period, or for insuring both your car and your home with the same carrier.
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer. A frequent contributor to publications including Bankrate, REALTOR Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, personal finance, and legal topics.
Green Bathroom Remodeling
Real estate – whether it’s a home or an investment property – is a long term investment. Every decision you make to maintain or improve your property should include the long term goal / result, whether it is the bills that you will pay for the rest of your life, or the re-sale value of your home. And in these economic times, it’s not just about saving money anymore, it’s also about being frugal with out natural resources. The cost for water in Hawaii is much higher than other parts of the country. (To preempt the inevitable question, yes, we know we’re surrounded by water.) So, while the cost for water is higher here, so is the cost to our environment and the delicate ecology of our island home when we are not careful with the water we use. Every resource is priceless. So if you are considering remodeling, consider the cost not only in the dollars and cents for new fixtures in the beginning, the value to your lifestyle, home, and the care of your environment. Here are some tips from HouseLogic to help you think through your next bathroom remodeling project.
By: Dave Toht | Published: September 30, 2009
If you want to make sure your bathroom remodeling project is as green as possible, here’s how to save energy, conserve resources, and protect your budget.
It’s all about the water
Thinking about greening your bathroom means considering how you use water in terms of consumption and energy. According to the American Water Works Association, your humble toilets are the thirstiest water users in the house, accounting for 27% of consumption. This fact inspired conservation schemes like placing something hefty in the toilet tank to reduce flushing capacity, and those low-flow toilets that too often didn’t flush what needed flushing.
A more successful approach is the dual-flush toilet. It has two flush buttons, one for light work, one for heavy. Long a mainstay in Europe, dual-flush toilets are available in the U.S. for $250–$400, a price in line with top-quality conventional toilets. A dual flush toilet can save 17,000 gallons of water a year—about $50 off your water bill. If you wish to keep your old toilet (a very green decision), you can retrofit it with a dual flush mechanism costing only $70.
The shower is another squanderer of water. Showers use 16% to 20% of a home’s water, most of it heated. The flow rate of a typical showerhead is 2.5 gallons per minute. Switching it out with a low-flow head of 1.5 to 2 gallons per minute still offers adequate cleansing power with a substantial savings in water usage. (If you cherish a really forceful blast of hot water, consider a full-flow showerhead with a lever that lets you shut it off while you lather.)
In addition to conserving water, you’ll want to take a close look at the way your water is heated. Second only to the kitchen, the bathroom is your home’s most intensive energy user, with most of that energy going towards those nice hot showers and baths. Curbing wasted energy can be as simple as adding an insulating blanket to your tank-type heater (reducing energy use by 4% to 9%) and insulating all accessible hot water pipes. In addition, most water heaters are set to 140 degrees; you can turn down the water heater temperature setting to a still-toasty 120 degrees and save up to $60 per year on energy costs.
If your old water heater is nearing the end of its 15-year life cycle and you’re considering investing in a new water heater, you can achieve some handsome energy savings. One smart option is a condensing storage water heater. Using technology similar to that of high-efficiency furnaces, the condensing heater puts nearly every possible BTU into the water instead of sending it up the flue. Currently, a 50-gallon gas unit costs $1,700 (versus $380 for a standard tank-type heater), a price that is expected to drop as demand takes hold. Installation costs are around $400, slightly higher than that of standard units. Those higher costs are offset by a $300 tax credit and an EPA estimated annual fuel savings of more than $100.
A tankless water heater heats water only as it is needed, avoiding the heat loss that occurs with a conventional tank. A unit costs about $2,000 installed, and your annual energy savings will be $70 a year. Be aware that these units take some getting used to; expect a shot of cold water before the hot kicks in.
Move that air
A bathroom remodel is an excellent time to consider installing a new exhaust ventilator fan to remove odors, moisture, and mold spores. Many bathroom fans only vent to the space between ceiling joists, creating an environment for mold and dampness that can damage walls and ceilings. Make sure your new fan vents completely to the outside of your house.
Unfortunately, even properly installed fans that push the moist outdoors can carry away a lot of heated air as well. A clever solution to this problem is a heat-exchange ventilator that uses outgoing air to warm the cold incoming air. Such units cost about $250 uninstalled, twice the price of a standard fan. Whatever fan you have, avoid an on-off switch; it’s too easy to forget to turn it off. Replace it with a timer switch or, better yet, buy a new fan unit with a motion- or humidity-sensing switch.
Selecting green materials
A green bathroom remodel need not stint on style. Classic ceramic tile comes in limitless colors and patterns, and is a green choice due to its low maintenance, durability, and low toxicological impact. Some tiles have high recycled content; recycled glass tiles are a lovely way to do the right ecological thing. Not buying something new can be good green idea too. Consider refinishing your old tub or sink. Use the pros for the best results. Expect to pay $500 for a tub, $300 for a sink. You’ll save as much on installation costs.
LED illumination now produces pleasing light quality in fixtures that sip only 2 to 15 watts, emit little heat, and have a life span of 15–20 years. They cost about three times as much as conventional fixtures but use so little electricity that the payback can be as short as a year.
Paint and vinyl coverings often come loaded with VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that threaten indoor air quality. Look for building materials with Green Seal certification. Green Seal is a non-profit, independent organization that certifies products claiming to be environmentally friendly. Low-VOC options in paints and adhesives can be found at your local home center.
Waste not
Much of our landfill (estimates range from 22% to 40%) comes from construction debris. Any steps that reduce landfill potentially reduce the chance of ground water pollution, the odor and unsightliness of a local landfill, and in some cases the high cost of shipping waste elsewhere. Much of the debris that comes from a remodeling tear-out is not salvageable, but old toilets, sinks, light fixtures, medicine cabinets, and vanities can be donated to an organization like Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore. In fact, it may be just what someone is seeking for their own green remodeling.
Water Damage: What to Salvage? What to Toss?
You live in your home and love it and you may have no intention of selling….now. But that might change with time, job promotions, changes in your family situation, a decision to invest in real estate. Whether you plan to sell soon or eventually, home repairs are just a part of owning property. Wherever you live, things happen. One of the most common is water damage – not always from the Ala Wai flooding or because you live in a low lying area of Oahu. If you live in a condo on the Gold Coast, flooding usually isn’t an issue, but many types of plumbing problems from sinks, bathtubs, etc can cause unexpected damage. The sooner you deal with it, the better, and the more protected your investment will be when it comes time for a home inspector to stop by! Take a look at this guide from HouseLogic to know what is worth your time and effort and what is beyond recovery.
by Caroline Mayer
Water damage doesn’t have to be fatal. Here’s a guide to which items to keep and which to toss.
When it comes to mitigating water damage, every hour counts. Knowing what can—and can’t—be saved will speed cleanup and save money.
Salvage these water-damaged items
- Concrete, cinder blocks, and plaster walls: Wash first with soap and clean water, then disinfect quickly with a bleach solution. (1 cup to 5 gallons water to clean and sanitize; 1 cup to 1 gallon water to remove mold.) Allow to air dry.
- Linoleum and hardwood floors: These are salvageable if you can dry them quickly. Run high-powered fans.
- Subflooring: Dry thoroughly to prevent warping. Remove floor covering and use fans to circulate air and mitigate water damage.
- Drapes, linens, and clothes: Items that can’t be washed or dry-cleaned, such as mattresses and upholstered furniture, should be air-dried in the sun and sprayed thoroughly with a disinfectant.
Toss these water-damaged items
- Drywall, wallboard, and batt insulation: All hold water, so remove to prevent mold and decay.
- HVAC ducts: Replace water-soaked, insulated ducts to prevent mold from spreading throughout the house.
- Ceiling tile: Unless damage is minor, toss sodden soundproofing tiles.
- Large rugs with foam backing: Wet backing often deteriorates and takes forever to dry. You may be able to save the rugs, but toss the pads.
- De-laminated furniture: Soaked particleboard or pressed wafer board furniture probably is a lost cause: Re-glued laminate skins never look right.
- Food and medicine: Anything that touched the water is unsafe. Throw out wooden cutting boards, plastic utensils, baby bottle nipples, and pacifiers.
- Toys and play equipment: If they’re water-logged or you’re unable to disinfect them, throw them away.
Caroline Mayer is a former Washington Post reporter who specializes in consumer issues, most recently writing for AARP and other general-interest publications.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/floods/water-damage-salvage/#ixzz25kzb7N9X
Gold Coast Real Estate, Inc. 